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Fashion on a Ration: the Influence of WWII Style

A review of ‘Fashion on the Ration’ on at the Imperial War Museum (London 2016, Manchester 2017)

When we hear the phrase ‘Make do and Mend we think World War II and clothes rationing. But where did the phrase come from? WWII started in 1939 but the ‘Make do and Mend’ campaign wasn’t launched by the British Government until 1942.  The manufacturing of textiles, uniforms and general clothes put pressure on the textile manufacturing industry and many factories changed function to essential war work. To ensure uniforms were prioritised for manufacture, the British Government rationed clothing on 1 June 1941. This scheme was also to ensure fairness to consumers as there was a lack of clothing for sale in the stores by this time. The Imperial War Museum held a successful exhibition in both their London and Manchester branches showcasing what people wore during WWII and how they coped with ‘Fashion on the Ration’.

British poster from the Second World War (IWM)

The ‘Make do and Mend’ campaign encouraged British residents to preserve their clothes proving leaflets and lessons on how to darn socks and jumpers or patching jacket elbows for example. This spawned a wave of ingenuity and instead of giving up on fashion, people came up with new ideas in which to show off their individuality.  With dress fabric being rationed, people utilised upholstery fabrics for garments and made dresses from tablecloths or suits from curtains. There is a display of beautiful underwear delicately handmade from silk maps. The silk maps were given to RAF pilots and one particular pilot gave his map of Italy to his girlfriend who made it into a cami-knickers and bra set. My favourite outfit of the exhibition was previously a wedding dress that had been shortened and died a vibrant red colour. (photo below)

Fashion on a Ration exhibition at IMW North

As the war progressed, the number of coupons given to families for clothes also decreased. Not everyone during this period had to worry about fashion as around a quarter of the British population wore uniforms whether in the armed forces, medical units or volunteer service. Uniform had a large influence on the street fashion during WWII. Hilary Wayne from the Women’s Auxiliary Territorial Service recalls ‘There is no doubt that dressing up helps soldiers, as it helps actors, to play their parts. I think we not only looked different we felt different.’  The uniforms on display take you back to that era and you can imagine how smart people looked as they walked about the streets.


Clothes needed to be practical, for housework, digging an allotment and crouching down in the air raid shelter, which led to women favouring trousers for the first time in history. One display showed a pair of dungarees that wouldn’t look out of place on a young woman today and were available without a ration coupon. Another item of similar style to today’s trends was the ‘Siren Suit’. These were all-in-one-suits that people would wear down to the shelter to keep them warm and protect their day clothes from being ruined.  The soft fleece suit on display looks like a more fashionable version of the popular onesie from the current day. Although more conveniently, it has a flab at the back to make it easier to go to the loo!

Full length house coat printed with seed packets to promote the Dig for Victory campaign

Even though resources were short, new items did become available. I came across a display of silk scarves printed with patriotic quotes from Winston Churchill, maps of the British Isles and quotes from Shakespeare.  A full length house coat stands out as it is made from fabric that is printed with seed packets to promote the ‘Dig for Victory’ Campaign, which encouraged civilians to grow their own vegetables.  In 1942 the Government hired a group of couturiers, fashion designers and manufacturers to produce what was known as ‘Utility Clothing’. Even though clothes were rationed they were still difficult to come by and after a few years of ‘Make do and Mend’ many people’s clothes were wearing out. The range was well designed, from good quality fabrics with enforced seams and made to last.

At the end of the exhibition there is a short film of quotes from people in the fashion industry discussing the influence WWII had on today’s current fashion industry. I was particularly interested in the comment about how high street fashion today is made to be thrown away after a few wears and we are encouraged to buy new rather than make do and mend. The developments in manufacturing during the 1940’s was the forerunner of mass production of clothing that we know today, making clothes more affordable and widely available. I can’t deny that I enjoy being able to buy ready available clothes at affordable prices but the negative effect it has had on our environment over the decades is a growing issue. Read my blogs on Fashion Revolution Week for more information.

Interested in mending your own clothes? I teach clothes mending workshops with my friend Eleanor, find us over on Fast Fashion Therapy